Renaissance - hymn to beauty
Fashion Renaissance associated with the spiritual development of man and the realization of her identity, was born in Italy, demanded changes in attitudes towards cosmetics. In those days were born canons of beauty, which did not lose their value so far: a tall, stately figure, broad shoulders, thin waist, nice mouth, white teeth and red lips. Specific requirements of the Renaissance to the exterior are: tall, no hair framed her forehead, smooth lines which should not violate even the eyebrows, which are sure to pull out. The most important condition of beauty were blond hair.
Clothing, not exposing the human body and its parts, was with him, as it were a single entity. This requirement applies to and in cosmetics. Grimirovka person has been elevated to the rank of art, which was a perfect master of every woman. Resident of the peninsula distinguished by great art in how to change hair color. Hair or stained in the color you want using the mineral and organic dyes, or used false hair bright yellow. The houses have foreseen comfortable sunroom, where they could discolor your hair the natural way - with the help of the sun, using a clever hat to protect from sunburn face and leaves open the hair.
In Italy, there was a special literature on cosmetics - the authors were Giovanni Battista, Lent Stsebella, Cortese, etc.
Guide Catherine Sforza presents its readers with all the techniques that were used when applying makeup, cosmetics and general body care. To ensure increased demand for cosmetics open prototype of modern perfumery factories. In the process of overall development of scientific thought and artisans who manufactured cosmetics, become real scientists, in contrast to the numerous colleagues in other European countries, did not disdain the sale of any of the revenue.
Italian artists who came to France with Catherine de Medici, brought with them all sorts of paint, paste, powder and paint.
further development and full recognition of cosmetics was in France, especially in the XVII and XVIII centuries. Since then, the French taste and fashion have mastered all of Europe and hold it for several centuries. It should be noted, however, that in France vividly perceive all of the most valuable thing that was already established in other countries. This is evidenced, for example, the appearance in the XVI century the popular book, whose author was a doctor, Regent of the Faculty of Medicine, University of Paris Andre Le Fournier. It had collected information about the recipes used throughout Europe, and many of them are known for very unique. The interest in cosmetics, created in other countries, says the emergence of the same book XVI century Italian author Zhirola can Roussel, one of which is titled "Secrets of Signora Alexis" also contains recipes beauty potions. For toyu to assess the originality of some of them, we give a recipe: "Take the white pigeons and feed them with pine seeds for 15 days. Then prirezhte them, tear off the head, legs, pull out the insides, pass them through the alembic, and then add back the flesh of white bread soaked in almond milk, 400 grams of veal brains and lard. All these boil over low heat, and you get a great tool for wiping faces. "
Not surprisingly, such 'recipes' cause a variety of rumors, but the perfume and the doctor says that they are witches, and the very furniture of the interior shops of perfumers, forced by a mysterious bottles and vessels, suggested the God-fearing man in the street of those distant times the gloomy thoughts. Nevertheless, the assistance of the perfumer resorted eager youth and beauty. Wizards and sorcerers called those involved in drawing up "love drinks, in addition to trade in cosmetics and perfumes, but people went to them hoping to get a recipe for eternal youth, beauty and health, not having received neither the first nor the second nor the third, brought the perfumer to sacrifice his frustrated hopes. Legend and paintings of a coven, anoint ointments, witchcraft, charms and transformation through the miraculous and magical, and odoriferous substances, further led to believe that a perfumer is subject to, and beauty, youth, and life, and illness and death .. .
Preparation of spirits, which in large quantities consumed in many countries, was kept secret. Perfumers are not worried about the transfer of any of their offspring recipes, nor their names. Recent very rare. Mentioned, for example, a chemist-perfumer Forzhona, who served at the French court in 1701. This talented man many are obliged to preserve the beauty: the secrets he gave them home-based Legrand.
France has always been considered the realm of cosmetics, where it spread further around the world. Only at the beginning of the XVIII century in France annually exported abroad cosmetic products to 30 million francs. Around 1640 in France were first wigs, left an imprint on the history of fashion and cosmetics. In 1642 Fintile wrote: "For the elegant ladies toilets require a wholesale store cosmetics - all kinds of rubs, white, blush, sublimate, alum, vinegar, perfume, almond milk, etc.". Come into fashion fancy hairstyles, and on the heads of the ladies there are still lifes of flowers, ribbons, decorative pins and pens. White powdered wigs are designed to hide the age and make them owners of refined look, accentuated grimirovkoy relevant entity and its stylization. Cosmetics and makeup used in an amount that was rumored to have come down since that time, husbands sometimes do not recognize their wives, although they did not go for it.
In XVIII century, powder and rouge became inevitable Toilet women of all walks of life. Imagine a noble Frenchwoman of the time. "A graceful, slender, thin-waisted dress with a gorgeous hoop, with a deep cut on powdered chest, in a lush powdered hair, a neatly let down face which stood out eyes, painted a narrow slit in Chinese, with the indispensable beauty spot, with a piquant stained lips, long thin arms, with coral nails "- this was a woman of that era mincing.
men wore powdered wigs, generously used fragrant waters and, according to evil tongues, to show the suffering of a failed love bleached his face, put strips of gum arabic in order to simulate blurred with tears.
Since the end of XVIII century popularity of color cosmetics was waning: it decreases the use of rouge, white lead, simplified fashion.
should be noted that not all times and in all countries welcomed cosmetics. In XVII -century England and Holland for religious reasons, banned rouge, lipstick, apply cosmetics. British Parliament was even published in 1799, the law read: "All women, irrespective of their caste and age, that after the promulgation of this Law shall deceive citizen of His Majesty with the help of spirits, lipstick, rouge, face paint, fake teeth, high heels etc., will be tried for witchcraft, and the marriage will be invalid. "
And in those days, accusations of witchcraft are often threatened with death.
Which tricks sometimes resorted to combat the devastating effects of aging, eloquent example of Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603), not zhalevshey no money, no papers in a desperate effort to regain its former beauty. To simulate the thin translucent blood vessels, a very youthful skin, she made the maids to draw them on her forehead and temples on top of a thick layer of powder.